What happens when you take 10 wine stewards on an overnight trip to see the Tablas Creek winery? MINDS are BLOWN AWAY!!!!!!!!!!! This past week all the wine stewards and I took a 3 hour drive down to Paso Robles and spent and entire day touring vineyards, tasting out of barrel, blending wine and then a 4 hour dinner with wine education in between each course. Tough life…right? Well, as the cliché says, “Someone’s got to do it!”
On March 4th all of our wine stewards dutifully arose before the sun to meet me at our Los Altos store at 6:45 A.M. and for the first time in my three year history with Andronico’s Market, everyone was EARLY! We all piled into a “12” person van. Really it was more like 10 but there were seatbelts for everyone, it was just tight. The first hour of our drive was a caffeine driven conversation about our trip, the second hour everyone came down from the high and took a little nap. The last hour we became giddy, as we knew the winery was approaching.
Now when most people go visit a winery they walk up to the tasting room, survey the tasting menu pay a few dollars, taste the wine, maybe buy some wine and then go to the next place. Well, for us it was a one-winery day, packed full of learning about vineyards, winemaking and the art of blending wine. We arrived at Tablas Creek right on time (another first) and began our day.
Before I boast about our day, it is important to know about Tablas Creek and the people behind the winery. Tablas Creek is a partnership between the Perrin family of the famed Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhone and the Haas family who began one of the most important importers in the United State, Vineyard Brands. In the mid-1980’s Robert Hass and Jean Pierre and Francois Perrin decided they want to search California for a sight to produce world-class Rhone style wines. They searched all of California, from the Sierra Foothills, Napa, Sonoma and Santa Barbera. Eventually, in 1989 they found a 120-acre plot of land in west Paso Robles that they deemed “perfect” for producing world-class wine. This 120-acre plot of land sits on a mountain of limestone, which both the Perrin brothers and Mr. Haas believed to be one of the most important keys to achieving their goal. The location had two other properties that made them believe that this WAS the site: elevation and temperature. The vineyard sits about 1,500 feet above sea level and has hot days and very cool nights. When you combine limestone, elevation and large swings in temperature you have all the makings of a good place to plant some grapes, especially Rhone varitals. The winery produces only Rhone style wines with the majority of their production being blends similar to those found in the southern Rhone.
Once we arrived we were promptly greeted Neil Collins, vineyard manager and winemaker. He took us on a tour of the vineyards and highlighted the limestone formations, the process of selecting which vines go where and explained the organic farming methods they use to grow their vines. Seeing a vineyard may seem not too exciting but to wine geeks like us, it is why we are there. Wine tasting is great and its how you know what a wine tastes like (obliviously) but seeing the vineyard allows you to understand WHY a wine tastes the way it does. It was fascinating to see crops of limestone just poke out of the ground and seeing vines struggling to grown amongst all the rocks.
Once we hiked the vineyards Neil took us into the winery and the tasting began. He first took us through barrel samples. Neil explained that all the wines are vinified separately by varietal and by block. All the wines ferment via indigenous yeast, which means the fermentation can take a long time and provide more flavor to the wine. We began with the 2007 whites: Picpoul, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Viognier. The wines were all immaculate, evocative, and beautifully made. After the whites we tried the reds. All of the reds are fermented in large 1,000-liter oak tanks. The oak allows for small amounts of oxygen to soften the wines without imparting tons of oak flavors. The reds were all rich, plush, and intense. After our barrel samples, it was time for a tasting of the current releases. Here is what we tried: Côte du Tablas Blanc 2006, Grenache Blanc 2005, Roussane 2005, Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc 2006, Côte du Tablas Rosé 2006, Côte du Tablas Rouge 2005, Mourvedre 2005, Syrah 2005, and the Esprit de Beaucastel 2005 Rouge. My personal favorites are the Côte du Tablas Blanc and Rouge, the Grenache Blanc, the Mourvedre and Esprit du Beaucastel Blanc and Rouge. The wines all have a common thread about them that define the winery. First, there is a purity of fruit both on the nose and the palate that shows the ripeness and balance of what takes place in the vineyard. Second, texture. All the wines have a texture on the palate that let you know the wine is there and has a life and soul. The wines do not attack your palate but caress it. Finally, there is balance. All the wines have beautiful balance between the aroma, the palate and the finish. Each wine is a classic example of its varital or style and provides one with endless pleasure.
After our tasting we enjoyed a lovely al fresco lunch with Robert Haas and Jason Haas. After lunch Jason lead us all on a blending seminar. Blending is the backbone to Tablas Creek. Their primary wines, the Côte du Tablas line and the Esprit du Beaucastel are both blends. Each grape that is blended in provides a specific characteristic to the wine and it is quite an art. A single percentage less or more of just one grape can dramatically change the entire wine. Jason separated us into two groups and placed 4 wines on our tables: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Counoise. Our task was to each come up with a different blend and then as a table create a blend. This was a fascinating exercise and gave all of us more insight into what each grape provides to a wine. Our table choose 60% Mourvedre which is deep, dark, and brooding. The wine has aromas and flavors of blackberries, black plums, savory spices, leather and chalk. We then added 30% Syrah. The Syrah was more forward with blue fruits such as blueberries and had hints of wild currents. We then added 10% Counoise which is bright and fresh with high-toned aromas of sour cherries and bright acidity. Once combined we had a full-bodied wine with deep and dark aromas with a refreshing kiss of acidity that made the wine seem lighter on the palate.
That concluded our day and our education at Tablas Creek. From vine to table Tablas Creek is a winery that provides wines that are true to the place, the grape and a pleasure to drink.